China is home to four sacred mountains, jewels of an age-old cultural and spiritual heritage. Among them, Mount Qiyun – a Mecca of Taoism since the VIII^e century – unfurls its serene landscapes, suspended temples and mysterious caves, like so many invitations to harmony between man and nature.

When we arrive at Qiyun Shan station, Zhu Ping – or ‘Tchouping’ to our French-speaking ears – is waiting for us. A friendly guide, he leads us to the Tao Village, nestling on the slopes of the mountain. There are two options for getting there: the cable car or the footpath. Our little group opted for the walk, a slow pilgrimage punctuated by oratories and ancient inscriptions - some bearing witness to the visits of several emperors. I have a feeling we're walking through an important historical site.

Meetings and wisdom

Tchouping looks after us like an ideal Taoist host: accommodation, meals, answers to our questions... He even organises a conference on Chinese medicine with Dr Sun, who travels 200 km by train to meet us. He talked to us about breathing, the pillar of health, and the Five Elements – the natural cycle in which everything comes into balance.

"Lao Tzu wanted society to return to wu wei, or non-action," he explains. "Not inaction, but the art of tuning into life without forcing it." Between Yin and Yang, I sense the depth of Taoism – a wisdom to be explored far beyond this journey.

By way of demonstration, Dr Sun offers lightning diagnoses. In a matter of seconds, he detected migraines, chronic back pain and digestive problems in our small group. Refusing to accept any payment, he insists on offering acupuncture sessions. His generosity left us speechless.

Rituals and landscapes-meditation

The soul of Mount Qiyun radiates from the Taisu monastery, built in the XIII^e century, like a silent prayer carried on the wind. Every day, I discover a new detail: an initiation ceremony for six children learning the sacred gestures – the prostrations are surprisingly similar to Muslim prayer – A sign that the Source is One. A young woman in a red and gold period costume being photographed. A room with statues of the Immortals – some with fearsome effigies – corresponding to our year of birth.

The village itself is a lesson in simplicity. In the morning, a fog rises like a curtain between the mountains before dissipating; on another day, a torrential downpour sweeps through the streets, reminding us of the brute force of nature. In a garden, we practise Qi Gong with Tchouping, synchronising breath and movement.

Mount Qiyun is much more than a historical site: it's a gateway between worlds, where the magic of Taoism can be glimpsed, discreet and powerful.